I recently received a question from one of my awesome subscribers. The question was so good and so timely, I thought I’d share it, along with my response. The question was:

• Let them go dormant naturally, and avoid trimming them until the plants are dormant (as in the photo above). During the late fall, it’s okay for them to be exposed to cold temperatures—frost is even acceptable and beneficial to help the plants become acclimated.
• Consider applying a broad-spectrum fungicide drench in the fall (several weeks before they go dormant) to make sure the plants (roots) go into the winter healthy.
• Since they are not actively growing this time of year, you likely do not have to continue fertilizing them.
• During the winter, keep the EC below 0.6 mS/cm using the 2:1 media extraction or less than 1.4 with the pour through method.
• Avoid wide fluctuations in temperatures from day to night. Many growers keep their premium echinacea (as well as liners) just above freezing to prevent freeze/thaw events, which can lead to decreased survival rates. I often aim for overwintering temperatures between 33 and 38 F when overwintering our echinacea. 
• Keep the foliage and crown of the plant dry. If they are getting drips of condensation from the structure, consider applying an anti-condensate to reduce the daily “rain” events. Provide lots of air circulation using HAF fans.
• The crowns are super sensitive to botrytis during dormancy—particularly in the late winter when the crowns begin to de-acclimate.
• To prevent botrytis, consider applying fungicide sprays every two to three weeks (weekly if botrytis is present and active). FYI: Botrytis can occur with temperatures as low as 34 F. I like to use Astun, Chipco or Broadform during the winter months.
• To further help, keep them on the dryer side when they are dormant— moisture level 2. They are not using water during dormancy. Water only when absolutely necessary and when conditions allow the foliage/crown to dry quickly. Keeping them overly wet often leads to the development of crown rots.
• If survival has been an issue in the past, consider placing plugs in heat (55 F) for 7 to 14 days before planting to wake them up. Only plant the liners where some new shoots are emerging.

Do you have a question or diagnostic challenge you'd like help with? I've got your back! Please send any questions or diagnostic challenges I can use in future newsletters to paul@opelgrowers.com.

Speaking of echinacea, check out this new one from Terra Nova Nurseries: Prima Spider.

Here's another recent introduction that caught my eye:

Most growers use injectors to deliver nutrients from water soluble fertilizers. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to properly maintain and calibrate injection equipment. Nick Flax, a Technical Services expert at Ball Horticultural Company, discussed injector calibration in a recent Tech On Demand newsletter from fellow editor Bill Calkins. Here’s what Nick shared with the TOD readers:

Photo: Tina Smith, UMass Extension

• First, run your clear water for a couple of minutes and collect a sample in a clean cup. Test your raw water’s EC and write the value down (for example, raw water EC is 0.41 mS/cm). 
• Next, find the label on your fertilizer bag, select your desired feed rate and injection ratio (ex. 200 ppm N at 1:100), and find the corresponding EC value that you should be getting at the end of your hose (for instance, if the label says at 200 ppm N 1:100, EC should be 1.29 mS/cm). 
• Add the raw water and fertilizer target EC values (like … 1.29 + 0.41 = 1.70 mS/cm).
• Next, set your injector ratio to the prescribed setting. In this case, adjust to 1:100. Run your injector for a minute or two, allowing fertilizer stock solution to fully enter the injection stream. Collect a sample from your hose and test the solution’s EC. 
• If the EC value is close to what your math says it should be, your injector is good to go. Repeat this quick check several times throughout the season and adjust as follows:
• If the EC value is too low, reduce the denominator of your injector ratio. (ex. if your target EC is 1.70 mS/cm at 1:100 but the test reads 1.50 mS/cm, change the ratio to about 1:90, run the injector for about one minute, collect a fresh sample and retest. 
• If the EC value coming out of your injector is too high, do the opposite and increase the denominator (An example would be1.90 mS/cm when it should be 1.70 mS/cm). 
• Retest and readjust until the EC of the solution coming out of your hose is close to what it should be, per the fertilizer label and your quick math. 

If you’re looking to enhance your horticultural knowledge or if you have employees you’d like to improve their cultural knowledge so they can help you grow better plants, look no further than MSUs College of Knowledge. 

Thank you for reading this issue and for your continued loyalty. Without you, Perennial Pulse would not be possible. I hope you have a pleasant holiday season!